Chilkoot Trail – July 2019

One of the epic multi-day US hikes, the Chilkoot Trail had not really been on my radar until a friend mentioned she was interested in late 2018. It was quite fortuitous that she mentioned it then – given the permits and logistical requirements for this trip, it is one that is ideally planned out at least 5-6 months in advance.

The hike itself is best done as a three- or four-day hike, with camping stops at pre-booked sites. We opted for the four-day option, which is definitely the way I would go if I ever did this again. The hike has a historical aspect to it, as it was one of the primary routes used by the gold miners during the Klondike Gold Rush at the end of the 19th century. There are numerous reminders of this fact throughout the hike, as old mining equipment remains strewn about on the edges of the trail.

The highlight for me was the number of friends that were able to join on this trip!

Day 1

The trip started long before the start of the hike. Although there was an option to fly, we opted for the epic road trip from Anchorage to Skagway, passing sections of remote highway in Alaska and Canada that I had not yet traveled. Of course, once we reached Skagway, we also had to sample the local breweries, but with an early start the next morning, the partying was kept pretty mild.
Day 1 started at Dyea, a few miles out of Skagway proper. The destination was Sheep Camp, making this the longest hike of the trip at almost 12 miles. This section wound its way through old forest, providing moderate shelter from the light drizzle that persisted throughout the day. Numerous sections included planks above small ponds.

Day 2

While Day 1 was the longest hike, Day 2 was the most difficult, as we traversed Chilkoot Pass on the way from Sheep Camp to Happy Camp. This day was marked by continuing rain and fog, including on the ascent up the “Golden Staircase” to Chilkoot Pass. The Golden Staircase is famous as one of the most recognizable symbols of the Klondike Gold Rush – including the recognizable photos of prospectors, lined up like ants, trudging up the pass in winter. In the summer, this ascent was a field of talus, with visibility limited by the passing fog.

Golden Staircase, 1898

A bit different on our trip.

Upon reaching the high point of the Chilkoot Pass, we were immediately greeting by gusting winds that chilled us to the bone. Welcome to Canada! Thankfully, there was a small shelter on the Canadian side, which we were able to huddle into for warmth and to add a layer of clothes. The effect was minimized, however, due to the constant stream of people in and out – and every time the door was opened, a blast of wind nipped throughout the shack. After about ten minutes, we decided it was time to brave the wind outside instead of chilling in the cabin, and we started the descent – miserable at first, but only for about 15 minutes as we descended in elevation from the pass.
The next few miles included descending on multiple snow fields toward the lake in the valley below,

Day 3

The next day was one of the most pleasant days of the hike, as the wind, rain, and fog receded, leaving warmer weather and higher cloud cover. The miles on this section passed by quickly, and we had the luck of having Bare Loon Lake almost completely to ourselves. By the end of the day, the sun even began to appear, luring us into a swim in the lake.

Day 4

As the easiest day of hiking, as well as the best weather day of the trip, we were able to end on a high note. Although the distance that we had to hike wasn’t far, we did have to hurry a bit to make sure we could catch our train back to Skagway, which was arriving in the early afternoon. This also turned out to be the most scenic day for us, as the sun returned and we hiked along Lindeman Lake on the way to Bennett Station. Reaching the train station with plenty of time to spare, we were able to rest and reflect on what an amazing four days of hiking we had.
The train ride from Bennett to Skagway was, in and of itself, an amazing part of the trip. The train passes through incredible Alpine landscapes, steep mountain passes, and tunnels. As we parted ways in Skagway, we reflected on what an incredible time this was. Looking back on this trip as I write this post in 2021, I am so thankful we were able to do this in a pre-COVID world.